Parkzone and or hobhyzone gaps that costs us money... and more...
What is Z-foam
GAS! *&^!"^%"( watch the battery clip after
landing !!! (Read helpfull tips form a nice reader
here)
click to enlarge. Parkzone has first spraypainted the plane and then taped
it in.
To bad because after a fast landing it took out a little chunck right under
the motor mount. The tape did not distributed the impact.
If i was American, i would sue. But then again you guys
may still use cancer promoting, flesh gluing, lung and blood bad products.
So the glues you have may repair it very good.
To my experience now, the plane and it's manual overstate A LOT for its durability, flexibilty and
strengthness.
The beginners mode with almost no flap movement sucks and makes the owner
get the first 'crash'
after first throw. While in difficult mode this thing flys away and up like
a rocket, easy.
I came in slow, and about 40 cm off ground and almost no airspeed the nose angled towards and touched the the ground.
Now it is my own mistake i bought a plane that LOOKS like it is from EPP, i have several EPP planes and none are broken, not even after 'sky high nose dives'.
How do you glue Z-foam, whit what? Here in europe we have painters-disease and so some sorts of resolvents are forbidden in products, also glue products.
Our 1 second or epoxy glues that are sold in the 'walmarts' kind of shops are not for polythureen, styrene and such.
So i found 2
kinds of glue, 1 Pattex with no solvent in it and bison 'for all purposes'.
Both do not 'burn the Z-foam' and also... do not glue it !! Epoxy? the
kind we have is not suitable for foams with polysterene polythurane and such.
So what the hack is Z-foam and what can you glue it with? 'CA'?
That we do have, called '1 second glue' (in 1 to 10 minute types) that has
CA as a component in it. Very fast, very strong, a bit bendable, but... not
for foames.....
This
parkzone flyer feels dry, not bendable. That was what it showed after that
first time 'crash' with almost no hight or speed. touch ground, tear, brake,
2,5 inch after the loose nose cone. So the plane fly very nice, you can land
it if yo0u are perfect and have stady 1 direction winds. Perhaps that is why
it is not sold in the netherlands...? We have variable wind, in speed and
directions.
Non - perfect landing, 1 very messed up plane.
So parkzone
/ hobby zone, seek out what glue is available in europe for this dry almost
not bendable foam, tell us what this Z-foam is, put a little repair tube in
every box.
Sell seperate tapes and carbon rods/plates to strengthen this (standard)
pussy wing.
Oh men i am pissed, i flew a lot and never had to 'throw away 170 euro' after 1 flight and landing.
The beginner
mode has almost no flap movement, you can reset that with setting change of
the rods on flap arms, but then you have a OVER movement in ' difficult
mode' So for me, experienced, i flew in B mode right after the first f27 can
not easy mode-take-off lesson...
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The parkone / hoby zone stryker f-27 B has easy come-off
'paintjob' So the nose cone and standard double side tape only tape the
paint and dont do the job they supposed to do.
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Almost no impact, but the rear shows its weakness in that very good
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Glue comes out, does not seem to stick, looks like the z foam is rejecting
it
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land a bit im-perfect, lots of damage. This thing should come taped in, al
lot
.jpg.jpg)
Almost the whole area behind the nose came of, 1 side is barely holdding on,
ruptured.
.jpg)
What is Z-foam
I do not know, but it can not be glued with glues that state: 'not suitable
for polyethyleen, polypropylenen and teflon. How i know? i used two of them
on it....
once in the air and in 'difficult mode' the parkzone f27 flys nice, can do very nice aerobatic with it, fast, responsive in 'difficult mode' but overall, i give it a FIVE OUT OF TEN because it cant take wind changes very well, and goes broken with a little from perfect landing like it is made of the foam it came packed in in the box
Battery / accu hatch and straps. I
read about it, ejecting batterys from a stryker.
I had a loose one, it did not come out of the hatch but it was a close call.
The felcron and other tapes do not attach very well to the paint on the
z-foam *!"&£(*&!^%£*%&!"£$ So i used a bit of lightweigt and
strong rope 1mm thick. Since the 3 holes do not realy cool the battery
place, i could use them for putting rope throught them and so strap in the
battery. That helped. But on 'crash' the rope almost cut through the whole
bottom!
Battery solution
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Inside view of battery / accu straps, it is one medium post-rubberband.
The band seen underneath of plane strengthened and with more grip by a big
strong paperclip 90 degrees sideways enforcement. I have it going through
the two outer (of the 3) airvent holes, the battery seals them off anyway....
The manufactorer might glue in 2 carbon rods aside-, and then make more vent
holes there. Give a rubberband or 2 and voila, the battery ejecting 'problem'
is solved to.
Battery strapped in rubberband from underneath the plane
belly.
Update: this
does NOT free you from the battery shiftin all the way to the front of the
plane. When that happens, check if your wires became exposed, naked open so
to speak, when they contact you have a shortout and acuu wil melt, and also
melt the plane. Tha hatch will have residual poison so clean it well, ware
gloves! Sleaves, mask? safety-glasses? be responsible, it is your health.
.JPG)
Motor came lose taking the whole U shaped surrounding with it.
.JPG)
The rubberband-strapped in battery went from back to front seat the 3th of
the 3 hatches came off totaly and the middle battery hatch clip on to bridge
came lose. UPDATE 21-9-2006 after moving it it was like this: the battery
wires clip had came of during landing leaving the wires exposed!
On the photo you can see, that one can not see if the clip is still
on the battery wires. The hatch could not come of since it was repaired and
glued and taped on. I never had a battery clip comming of the wires, and i
have had much harder landings, crashes even. There should be a lay-in to
keep the battery in position, or another type of connector.
2 photos above and the damage only after a great landing, flat bellying, finding a 'hole' Z-foam bendable, strong ? Well if so, i must have one that was not made with good z-foam, perhaps wrong %tages of what it is made of, wrong temperature or pressure etc. Never had a worst plane !! )!£"*&()!&£^^!%"£
Like this aint all ! When i decided to do long taking and drying
repairs, it seemed the battery connector was ripped totaly of the
battery / accu itself when the parkzone / hobbyzone stryker 'crashed'. The
wires where naked, so riding back home with car also. But only now
the suddenly made contact, i smelt the chemical burn and since i have
a backyard and kitchen door was open i took it and sprinted the plane out of
the room and left it laying outside smoking on gras up side down.
Stryker smoking on grass.
How to approach and get out a battery that has been burning itself by naked
wires? rubber gloves? offcourse, it has to go into chemical dispossal, but
what are the things now? is it becom powder? can it crackle open? WHAT!?
I want to throw the whole thing away, but hey 170 euros plus shipping !!!,
can it be fixed,with what? parkzone / hobbyzone aint replying for weeks now
!!!
Warning to all, after a crash or 'crash' even this time a fast landing, or with every battery movement not done by yourself, check if the wires came blank and naked ! !*!")(£*!(&£%!^%"*£$ And if possible, becuase in this case the battery was shifted totaly in front under front hatch.
See here, chemical burn, how does one repair this?
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One melted parkzone stryker front side. Chemical infested now.... :-(( how
to repair?
.JPG)
Burned left overs of the battery wires.
Parkzone and hobby zone did not replye on 3 mails for 3 weeks now...so i will make a formal complaint by email but if i ever hear from them...
Response from hobby products (via parkzone site, online form) 4th allready....
Dear Customers,
Thank you for sending an e-mail to the Horizon Hobby Product Support Staff.
Due to the technical nature of some e-mails we receive, please allow us 48 -
72 hours for a response. If you need immediate attention, please feel free
to call our toll free support number at (877) 504-0233.
Thanks Again,
Horizon Hobby Product Support Team
Perhaps they mean 48 days to 72 days...?
24-05-2010
Here is a really good way to fix your Stryker.....go to Walmart or your
local arts and craft store and get yourself a small glue gun(the glue for
wood and metal works great) now, get some toothpicks and packing tape with
fiber threads in it. Stick the toothpicks in half way on one side,and then
put on some glue and put the pieces back together.The toothpicks add support
to make the pieces stronger without adding weight! now use the packing tape
around the repaired part. This repair is VERY strong and durable. You could
even sick tooth picks in from the side to keep the battery from falling out
Now go fly that Stryker....enjoy!!!!
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